Visiting the Externsteine – A Day Among Giants

Have you ever stumbled upon a place so surreal, so unexpectedly magical, that you wondered if you’d accidentally walked onto a movie set? That was exactly my feeling when I visited the Externsteine on our way to Duesseldorf — a towering group of sandstone rock formations that jut dramatically out of the landscape in the Teutoburg Forest like something straight out of a fantasy novel. Let me take you along on my trip to one of the most mystical and iconic natural monuments in Germany.

What are the Externsteine?

Before we dive into the details of my visit, let’s set the scene. The Externsteine are a striking natural rock formation located near the town of Horn-Bad Meinberg in North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. Composed of narrow, vertical sandstone columns, the rocks rise sharply from the surrounding forest like the jagged spines of a sleeping dragon.

They’re more than just pretty rocks, though. These formations have been steeped in mystery and myth for centuries. Some people believe the Externsteine were a sacred site for ancient pagan rituals, while others point to early Christian carvings and chapels within the stones. Whether you’re a nature lover, history buff, or someone just looking for an epic Instagram backdrop, the Externsteine have a little something for everyone.

Getting There: A Journey into the Forest

My trip started in the small town of Detmold, just a short drive from the Externsteine. If you’re coming from further away, you can easily reach Detmold by train or car — it’s well-connected and makes a great base for exploring the region. From there, I hopped on a local bus that took me straight to the Externsteine information center, where the adventure truly began.

Walking into the forest, I already felt a shift in the air. There’s something calming, almost ancient, about the Teutoburg Forest. Tall trees tower above you, the ground is soft with moss and fallen leaves, and the only sounds are chirping birds and the occasional rustle of a squirrel. And then, as you round a bend in the trail, bam — the Externsteine appear.

First Impressions: Stone Giants in the Woods

Nothing quite prepares you for that first glimpse. These rocks don’t just rise — they erupt from the earth. The tallest of them stands around 40 meters high, and they seem to defy logic with their sharp angles and narrow shapes. It’s like someone dropped a set of gothic cathedrals right into the forest, minus the stained glass.

There’s a natural clearing in front of the rocks, where you’ll often see people lounging on the grass, kids playing, and hikers refueling with sandwiches. I took a moment just to sit and stare. The light filtered through the trees, casting dappled shadows on the stone. It felt like time had paused.

Climbing the Externsteine

Of course, you can’t just look at the Externsteine — you’ve got to climb them! For a small fee (adults €4,00, children €2,00), you can access a set of narrow stairways and bridges that lead up into and between the rocks. Be warned: these are no ordinary stairs. They’re steep, worn, and carved right into the stone. But the views are so worth it.

At the top, you’re rewarded with a panorama of the forest and surrounding hills. There’s a small bridge connecting two of the tallest formations — not for the faint of heart, but definitely one of the most iconic photo spots. You’ll feel like a medieval adventurer crossing into unknown lands.

History Carved in Stone

One of the most intriguing things about the Externsteine is the history literally carved into them. As you explore, you’ll notice ancient reliefs etched into the rock walls. The most famous of these is the “Descent from the Cross” relief, a Christian carving dating back to around 1130 AD. It’s believed to be one of the oldest of its kind in northern Europe and adds an entirely new layer of mystery to the site.

There are also caves and chamber-like spaces carved into the rocks, including what is thought to be a small chapel and a tomb. Historians still debate the original purpose of these spaces — were they religious sanctuaries, hermit dwellings, or something else entirely? It’s the kind of place that makes you want to touch the stone and imagine the stories it could tell.

Myths, Legends, and a Dash of Pagan Lore

It wouldn’t be Germany without a few good legends, and the Externsteine have more than their fair share. Some say the site was a sacred center for Germanic tribes long before the arrival of Christianity. There are whispers of sun worship, lunar alignments, and even human sacrifices (although, let’s be real, there’s no actual proof of that).

During the summer solstice, modern-day pagans and neo-Druids often gather at the Externsteine for spiritual celebrations. It adds a kind of living folklore to the place — it’s not just a relic of the past, but a continuing tradition for those who feel a connection to the earth and its rhythms.

Nature Walks and Peaceful Moments

After climbing the rocks and soaking in the views, I decided to explore the surrounding area. There are several well-marked hiking trails that loop around the Externsteine, offering different vantage points and peaceful forest walks. One trail leads to a serene lake, where I stopped for a break and watched ducks paddle by.

The air was fresh, the sounds of civilization far away, and I couldn’t help but smile. It’s rare to find a place that combines natural beauty, deep history, and a genuine sense of peace all in one. The Externsteine manage to do exactly that.

Photography Paradise

Now, let’s talk about photos — because if you’re anything like me, you can’t visit a place like this without taking way too many pictures. The Externsteine are unbelievably photogenic. Whether you’re shooting from the front, catching the full row of formations, or finding that perfect angle where the bridge between the rocks looks like it’s floating in midair — you’re guaranteed to capture something spectacular.

I recommend visiting early in the morning or late in the afternoon for the best lighting. When the sun is low, the rocks glow in a soft golden tone, and the shadows add dramatic texture. If you’re lucky and there’s a bit of mist, the whole scene transforms into something out of a fairy tale. And don’t forget to zoom in on the details — the carvings, the layers in the stone, the moss that climbs up the walls.

Visiting the Information Center and Museum

Just a short walk from the rocks is the Externsteine Information Center. If you’re a fan of context (and let’s be honest, who isn’t?), this is the place to go to really dig into the background of the site. The small museum there gives an excellent overview of the geological formation of the rocks, the theories about their use over the centuries, and the excavation efforts that took place in the 20th century.

One section is dedicated to the natural flora and fauna of the area, which was surprisingly interesting. The Teutoburg Forest isn’t just home to big rocks — it’s an ecological hotspot. From owls and foxes to rare plants and fungi, it’s a place that thrives with life. The museum does a great job of showing how this natural and cultural monument is still very much alive.

Controversial History: The Externsteine in the 20th Century

Here’s where things get a little darker. While the Externsteine are a place of beauty and wonder, their history in the 20th century took a controversial turn. During the Nazi era, some nationalist ideologues tried to claim the Externsteine as a sort of German Stonehenge, believing it to be a central site for ancient Germanic culture.

This led to archaeological “research” that was more wishful thinking than science, and the site was used for propaganda purposes. The Nazis were obsessed with mythology and often tried to bend history to fit their narrative. It’s a sobering reminder that even places of natural beauty can be manipulated for darker purposes.

Thankfully, in the post-war years, the site was reclaimed by historians and naturalists who focused on real science and preservation. Today, it stands as a reminder not just of ancient mysteries, but of the importance of critical thinking and respect for history.

How Long Should You Stay?

You can easily spend an entire day at the Externsteine and still feel like you’ve only scratched the surface. I arrived in the late morning and stayed until sunset, and I didn’t get bored for a second. If you’re short on time, you could do the highlights — climb the rocks, check out the carvings, and take a walk around the lake — in about two or three hours. But to really feel the place, I recommend taking it slow.

Bring a book, have lunch on the grass, sit on a bench and listen to the birds. Let the place soak into your skin a little. It’s not just a place to see — it’s a place to be.

Best Time to Visit

Spring and autumn are ideal times to visit. In spring, the forest comes alive with fresh green leaves, wildflowers, and bird song. In autumn, the entire area turns into a riot of color — golden yellows, deep reds, and soft browns that make the rocks look even more dramatic.

Summer can get busy, especially on weekends, so if you go then, try to arrive early. In winter, the Externsteine are still open, and if there’s snow, it’s absolutely magical. Just be careful on the stone steps, as they can get slippery.

A Spiritual Pause

Even if you’re not religious or spiritual, there’s something undeniably powerful about the atmosphere at the Externsteine. I found myself lingering in one of the small carved-out chambers — possibly an old chapel or meditation room — and just letting the silence settle. You can feel the weight of centuries in these stones. So many people have passed through here with their own hopes, fears, and dreams, and in a strange way, it feels like their presence is still whispering through the crevices.

A few visitors sat cross-legged nearby, meditating. Others lit candles at the small altar that’s still sometimes used during solstice celebrations. It wasn’t theatrical or forced — just quiet, personal moments of reflection. And in our busy, always-connected world, that kind of stillness feels like a rare gift.

Final Thoughts: Why You Should Visit the Externsteine

So, after a full day of climbing, hiking, chatting, eating, and just being — what’s my verdict?

The Externsteine are one of those rare places that manage to be many things at once. They are:

• A natural marvel that seems sculpted by the gods.
• A spiritual place that whispers of ancient rites and quiet prayers.
• A cultural monument layered with history, myth, and meaning.
• A peaceful escape into nature, where you can truly disconnect.

They’re not flashy. They’re not overcrowded with tourists (at least not yet). And they don’t require a guided tour or a massive budget to enjoy. All they ask is that you come with curiosity and a bit of wonder.

If you’re ever in Germany, especially in North Rhine-Westphalia, make space on your itinerary for a day at the Externsteine. Bring good shoes, an open heart, and maybe a camera — but most of all, bring a little time to slow down and listen. The rocks have been waiting.

Quick Facts and Practical Info

• Location: Externsteine, near Horn-Bad Meinberg, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany
• Best Time to Visit: Spring and fall for the colors and mild weather
• Opening Hours (Climbing Area): Summer season April to October, 10:00–18:00 | Winter season November to March 11:00-15:00 (check website)
• Entrance Fee for Climbing Area:4,00 € for adults, 2,00 € for children (6-14 years)
• Accessibility: The area around the rocks is accessible, but climbing is not
• Parking: Available near the information center
• Public Transport: Buses run regularly from Detmold and Horn-Bad Meinberg
• Nearby Attractions: Hermannsdenkmal, Teutoburg Forest hiking trails, Detmold open-air museum

One Last Look Back

As I walked back toward the bus stop in the golden light of the late afternoon, I turned for one last look. The Externsteine stood quietly, massive and unmoving, yet somehow full of life. A place where nature, history, and myth collide. A place that feels sacred — not just in a religious way, but in a human one.

And as the forest closed behind me, I already knew: this wouldn’t be my last visit.

Transparency and trust: This article contains recommendation links, which are marked with *. This means no additional costs for you, but: If you buy something through one of these links, I will receive a small commission. This helps me to run this site and you support the blog and my work. Thank you very much!